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Kirra Shorts Sew-along: Front and Back

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts sewalong front and backThanks for joining me for part three of the Kirra Shorts Sew-along. By the end of today, your shorts are going to look a lot more like, well ... shorts as opposed to that pile of fabric pieces!

Front

Grab the front pieces, pin then sew them together along the centre front seam, right sides facing.

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts centre front seam

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts sewalong centre front seam

Once that's done, you'll also want to finish the seam edge all neat and tidy and press the seam to the garment's right. Think about how it will sit when you're wearing it if it helps. Once pressed, sew the seam allowance down with a scant 1mm (1/16") seam. 

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts topstitching

Making sure you have the waistband piece with the notches, pin and sew the waistband to the front legs, right sides facing, and press the seam to the waistband. There's no need to finish this seam as it'll be hidden away in the end.

the sergery sewing patterns attach waistband

 

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts waistband

Now let's get those pockets on! The pockets are my favourite thing about Kirra and I think a lot of you are nodding along with me right now.

You want to apply the wrong side of the pockets to the right side of your Short fronts. Match the bottom edge of the pocket opening to the second notch down on the legs, then the top edges of the pockets nest nicely between each pair of notches on the waistband. This is not the easiest thing to explain so check the picture below;

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts attach pockets

Since you've got the position right, use a vast amount of pins to keep the pockets in place before you sew around the outer edge with a 3mm (1/8") seam allowance.

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts pockets

It's also a good idea to baste the side and top seams of your pockets in place with a 6mm (1/4" ) to save them from flapping about in future steps. Give the whole thing a good press with steam to settle everything in place.

THE SERGERY SEWING PATTERNS KIRRA SHORTS SEWALONG BASTING

Back

Next, you'll be sewing the back of your shorts together in a very similar fashion to the front as described above. The literal only difference is that you press the centre back seam allowance to the left side of the shorts! So go ahead and

  • Sew the centre back seam
  • Finish the edge
  • Press the seam allowance to the left
  • Topstitch the seam allowance down
  • Pin and sew the remaining waistband piece to the top of the legs 
  • Press the seam allowance towards the waistband

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts sewalong back assembly

Pin the front and back pieces together at the side and crotch seams, with their right sides facing and sew. 

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts sewalong sew frnt to back

This is an ideal time to try your shorts on and see how they fit, so if you'd like you can just baste the side seams for now. The waistband seam will sit just below your natural waistline when worn. Make any changes to the side seams you like, but I do not recommend removing more than 1cm from each side seam so you can still pull them on once finished and to make sure you do not wind up with tiny pocket openings! Sew the seams with a normal stitch once you're happy.

You'll note that the centre of the crotch seam will butt together nicely and help create a perfect seam, I assure you this was not an accident. Finish these three seams and around the top edge of the waistband. Press the side and crotch seams in place towards the back.

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts sewalong sew front to back

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts finish waistband edge

Next time we're going to focus on how to sew that topstitched waistband! It's tricky but oh-so worth it. Also I'd love to see how you're going, let me know in the comments.

Nearly done! You'll find the final steps here!

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