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Kirra Shorts Sew-along : Cutting and Pockets

the sergery sewing patterns sewing kirra shorts sewalong cutting pockets
Your fabric is all washed and pressed? Excellent! Let's get going.

Cutting

Fold your fabric in half lengthways with the selvages together (the tightly woven edges of your fabric). Use the lay plans in the instructions as a guide and position and pin every pattern piece in place before you start cutting. You don't need to follow the lay plans To. The. Letter. Especially if your fabric looks the same up and it does down. However, you do need to make sure your grainlines are parallel to the selvages. Use a ruler to make sure the grainline of each piece is the same distance from the selvage the whole way along.

the sergery sewing patterns cutting kirra shorts

Once you are satisfied with your positioning, it's time to cut.
Don't forget to clip the notches. As this pattern uses a 1cm (3/8") seam allowance, be sure not to make them too deep, or better yet, use a trusted removable marker. If your fabric looks the same on the right and wrong sides, you can mark the wrong side of each piece with chalk.

the sergery sewing patterns cut fabric kirra shorts

Once everything is cut and notched, Head to the iron with your two waistband pieces. Fold them in half with long edges meeting (Wrong sides together) and press the fold in place. Remember that steam is your friend!

the sergery sewing patterns ironed waistbands kirra shorts

One other thing you can do now is cut your elastic to length. Grab your piece of elastic and wrap it around the your natural waist. Don't pull it too tight and make note of this length. Otherwise if you know the measurement already you can measure it out directly onto the elastic.

Since we're going to topstitch the elastic once it's inserted, we want it a little shorter then your natural waist measurement, so take 5cm (2") off the length you have come up with and cut it there. When you topstitch the elastic it will stretch out a little and we want to combat that now, so we don't have a loose waistband later.

Sewing Pockets

For the rest of today's work, you'll need to grab your four pocket pieces. With either your sewing machine set to a finishing stitch or your overlocker, finish the longest edge of both pocket facing pieces.

the sergery sewing patterns pocket facings kirra shorts

Using a long stitch, sew around the outer curved edge of the pocket pieces just inside the seam allowance.

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts pocket gathering

Pull the bobbin threads to create a slight gather and head to your iron. Press the seam allowance along this edge towards the wrong side. The gathered stitches will help but if you're still struggling to get a nice curve, make a template with cereal box cardboard and press the pocket over that.

the sergery sewin gpatterns kirra shorts pocket fold

With the right sides together, sew the facings to the pockets and clip into the curve's seam allowance, about eight should do it.

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts facings to pockets

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts pocket edge

Understitch this seam with the seam allowance towards the facings, and press the edge in place with rights sides out. Lastly, sew a topstitch around the pocket opening at 3mm (1/8").

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts pocket understitching

the sergery sewing patterns kirra shorts pocket topstitching

That's session two complete! Of course, if there are any questions please let me know in the comments below and we'll tackle sewing the front and back next time.

Let's head to part three!

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